Happy Thxgvng and the cruising budget.

So...now that we're here...

On the 21st Cody headed for the bus to Cabo to catch his plane back to Seattle (i'm trusting he got there okay since i haven't heard otherwise), and Quinn, Ty and i decided to preview what the cruising around here will be like and headed for a bay only 6 or so miles away.

Cody would have been proud of us: Ty caught a fish! Pretty quickly and easily too. A few days later, after stumbling thru some spanish with one of the dock workers at the marina and describing amarillo (yellow) spots on the fish, i learned that it was a cierra - famed for its ceviche. Yum! Which Ty and Q had some of, and the rest went into fresh fish tacos in Balandra Bay. We took sea cow out and motored around the perimeter of this bay, with its white sand beaches.

Later, Q & T hiked up a peak for the sunset view while i enjoyed some quiet time aboard. The scenery around here? really is epic (as Q says). Really. It's pinch-yourself beautiful.

The next day we sailed a short way north to Ensenada de Gallina on Isla Espiritu Santo. This is a nature preserve. Again some exploration ashore, finding blowfish skeletons in the flotsam (harsh beauty) and at the surf's edge - watching one make his final swim to join them. I decided to dress rehearse doing the fishing...and caught our propellor shaft. Watch out! So only left over fish on the menu that night.

The next day we sailed a few hours back to La Paz for Quinn's departure on the 25th. That night we attempted what may have been the first ever three handed Euchre match (take the 9s out of the deck, go each hand alone, and score two for all five, one to each defender for a euchre)...i won. Ty and i spent most of the day around town, caught some soccer on TV. Today we did one boat project and cooked a dish for the cruiser's thxgvng day potluck. In between there is catching up with the internet...

One subject has crossed my mind that i hope isn't awkward to share: money. My thought is that i could name some amount that food and returning to the dock costs to pick up friends who come to cruise, and then average that into a daily sum to ask you to contribute when you get here. But i don't want to do that. Why not? Because, frankly (obviously) your company and sharing this with you is more important to me than any money. Yet i think (hope) i will want the option to keep cruising as long as i can and optional gifts to my cruising fund would help that happen. Okay? Does this sound okay, or does anyone have another suggestion? (By the way, i don't intend this thought to cross the mind of anyone who crewed for me to get here or who has already made plans without this thought.) Thanks.

"Thanks" giving. Yes? Despite the anniversary that it is for us. ...yes...

Sending you so much thanks and love,

jon

changes to last two posts

In case you're keeping up here, i've added photos and text to the last two posts. luego, jon

Voila! (oops, wrong language) La Paz!

There is a rhythm to being in transit on a boat. Here you’ve stood watches thru the night and maybe a few days. (about 10 days ago we all loved being able to stand our night watches…in bare feet…all fans of warm weather). You’ve been trying to nap when you can. Coming into a new port or anchorage is exciting tho, so maybe you’ve stayed on deck on your off watch. So you arrive. Do a proper job of anchoring, or tying up and checking in…and then you NAP. Capital “N” Nap. After that you catch up with a few chores or maintenance items and then go exploring.

Our cruising friends, Dino and Anastasia, said that we could flag down any of the Cabo San Lucas water taxis for a few bucks per person to get ashore. So we joined them and did so the next afternoon. The crew was right – the first few blocks close to the waterfront were filled with big hotels and tourist traps. But when we got just a little off the beaten path, it felt like Mexico again. We went grocery shopping and followed D&A’s memories to a tortilleria – gotta love fresh tortillas straight from the source!

Back aboard, the rhythm began again. After some weeks, it feels rewarding to feel us work together as a crew, knowing what needs to be secured and checked and done next…almost without a word. We sailed off the anchor as dusk approached. We got a fishing line down and almost immediately got a bite! It was a beautiful dorado that put up a fantastic fight. Too fantastic when he gave a last airborn shake and broke the leader to get away. So, we’ve been losing lures and need to stock back up.

The wind was going our way for a good while. Under main and genoa we followed the curve of the coast going north. Soon switched to the jib and for the first time in a long time found ourselves sailing upwind. The waves seemed out of proportion to the wind, so it was a bit of a slog thru the night. All day we beat our way up the coast and dropped anchor right at dusk at Bahia de los Muretos in company with about 15 other boats. Cool spot with beautiful beach and more clear water. There’s a restaurant ashore, but we continued our high standards of normalcy and ate on board.

With about 50 miles to go to La Paz, early the next morning, the 18th, i got the engine going and the anchor up. It wasn’t long before Ty joined me on deck. As we looked over our shoulders back at this beautiful spot we saw a few whale backs rise and flukes follow to majestically disappear. We motored around a point and hoisted main and genoa and began a tack to remember – it looked like we would have to tack our way up Ceralvo Channel, but as we got close to the western shore the wind consistently “lifted”

our course and we were able to parallel close by the shore for almost 30 miles. Flat seas, steady wind, smooth sailing, sun, trimming the autopilot up or down a few degrees…quintessential sailing!

Once thru San Lorenzo Channel we turned south on the last leg to La Paz. With the wind behind us, we hoisted the drifter, called ahead to find moorage. Turns out the Baja Ha-ha group is still in town, and we tho’t we were some ten days behind them. We were lucky that Marina Palmira had space for us. We pulled in…and went to dinner to celebrate. We did it! 46 days later, 30 days or so underway, no one got hurt…now the cruising fun begins. From here? 30 or so miles a day, next larger town north is Loreto, with plenty of islands and bays between here and there.

The next day we did laundry, took showers, did chores…etc… And started catching up with our lives via the internet. I posted more to the blog, caught up with e-mail, and with the crew’s help – oh boy! – got Skype up and running to make phone calls. So…if you want anyone here to call you, e-mail me on sailmail to say you want a call. I’ll e-mail back to you when we will have shoreside internet access next and able to call you. I know, this is old hat to the rest of you, but i am very impressed and glad for it.

Tomorrow? Cody leaves for Seattle. Darn! He contributes generously and without hesitation to wherever he is and whatever he does. At one point, when he came on deck after his off watch to see that we had made a sail change, he said, "What, you made a sail change without me?!" Thanks to Cody, we've caught fish...and lots more laughter and better moments to remember. The dinghy is now known as the "sea cow" and the cockpit table as the "squid" (the way its legs splay out from its post like tentacles). And then there is my confidence in the team he and Tyler are - that they will take care of sail changes, trimming, log entries, etc...thus i can nap without a worry. Thank you so much Cody. We will miss you.

So today? While we still have Cody here with us, Tyler baked my birthday cake (Lazarus chocolate). I am writing as chef Quinn is preparing dinner. And i am wishing you all were here with me, more than only in my heart. My birthday? Imagine that. Q takes off just before thxgvng, Jerry and Cheryl arrive the day after thxgvng, Ty takes off on the 3rd...i'll cry that day but it's okay. It's time for me to try "riding without training wheels", to explore this beautiful cruising grounds, to dive deeper into this adventure, make new friends, and to look forward to your visits. Sending you love and hope, jon

in Cabo San Lucas, or is it Oz?

Hi again. We’re back. Well not quite.. Actually it’s been so long since i’ve written here that there will be stuff i’ve forgotten by the time i get back to internet access. So i’m writing at dawn, anchored in Bahia Santa Maria while my crew sleeps. When we get to La Paz i’ll post this. But at this point it feels like i need to back up and get some things down before i forget them.

Let’s see…I’m having to look back at photos to remember stuff. Oops! I notice one photo of (drum roll please) a pound cake! Thank you Cynthia (and Cody for packing it here) very much. Seeing the photo gives me a pang. Especially as we whittle down our store of food…that cake deserved all our appreciation. Thank you again.

So that was Santa Cruz (when the cake arrived – with Cody and Lomo, by the way). Rollicking sail from there to beat a storm into Oxnard (whew!) where a sail loft picked up a torn sail for repair. We enjoyed dinner and a night ashore at Susan’s in LA (thank you for schlepping us to and from LA!); dropped off Lomo at the airport; and restocked food.The three of us had a good sail to LA, if calm (lots of porpoise, and went for a swim); nice sail, anchorage and hike at Catalina; a night of motoring thru flat calm and fog to San Diego; good fun there with Jimmie (thanks for being our chauffeur, and for including Tyler in the open mic you host) and the addition of Quinn to our crew; then motored (darn calm!) to Ensenada – breaking “the law” and getting in to anchor after dark. I left you all off after a day of bureaucracy.

(Hey, it just started raining here? Wouldn’t that be ironic? To sail to Mexico…for our first sail in the rain? But the sound of it on deck is welcome, and the feel of it in the air. Guess i must be from the great Pacific Northwet.)

It used to be that cruisers would stop in San Diego to take care of their entry paperwork. The consulate there is an easy walk or bike ride from Harbor Island. But when i got there they told me that that service/chore was taken away from them two years ago, that i should take care of it in Ensenada. Plus the services (entry visas, temporary import permit, fishing licenses…) have all been centralized in one building in Ensenada – as opposed to other ports where each service is in a different building across town. So that’s what we did. On the way down, at about sunset, Quinn spotted our first whale in the distance. “Thar she blows!” Well, no, he didn’t say that. But he might as well have.

In Ensenada, the port captain said that to be cleared in i had to have a receipt from one of the marinas in town – that anchoring out is no longer permitted. This was made less fun when, while walking the waterfront to look for a slip, the wind piped up and my lazy anchoring job from the night before started to drag. Ty and i paddled out to the boat but a local panga got to her first. They had the anchor up and were about to pull her to…a marina (which we were looking for anyway). So we fired up the engine and followed them to one…and paid them for their help. Argh! Another serving of “humble pie.” So much for being tired while anchoring - back to fundamentals! So all this is probably why Ensenada didn’t leave a good taste in my mouth – partly my own embarrassment.

(In Ensenada, at the bureaucracy, we weren’t the only “yatistas” there - of course - checking into the country, struck up conversation with our kin and made some new friends, whom we seem to see in one bay or another. Especially Dina and Anastasia aboard a new Island Packet 48 named Ithaki. Very friendly. Anyway, four or more boats seem to be on the same page we are today…our first chance to “race”/cruise. So we’re getting underway – i’ll hope to resume writing to you later today…

Okay, i’m back. It’s early afternoon. We’re doin’ a very comfy 7 knots, maybe 20 degrees above our course to keep sails full on a broad reach, sailing well, passing up most of our companions. I’ve chilled down the fridge, charged up the batteries, run the watermaker…and made granola, sort of. Spoiled rotten.)

Next stop was about 300 miles south at Bahia de Tortugas. This leg was lots more fun. We went thru lots of sail change…trying to keep the motor off (except for topping off whatever the solar panels can’t keep up with – which i now use the generator for). We left with full main and genoa, but soon switched to the solant jib. At one point it looked as tho three whales were following us! We could see the shape of the back of the one plowing along closest behind – where the spine peaked and the sides sloped away. Powerful! Big! I added 5 degrees to our course to get out of his/her way and it worked, we parted ways. Wow! As dark came on we decided to see what the main looked like triple reefed and liked it. Then it was jib alone. In the morning the wind got light…we looked at the genoa by itself. Then the drifter. Main and spinnaker. Main and genoa. This is what willing crew is good for! If i had been alone there would have been far fewer sail changes. Another highlight was catching our second tuna. Cody didn’t hardly have time to put the lure out – fishing lasted maybe 15 minutes that day – like goin’ to the grocery store.

Once anchored, we inflated the dinghy to go ashore – to find that the valve for the floor leaks now (will have to see if the manufacturer can offer any help, it’s a new dinghy). Left the dinghy at the fuel dock, and walked around town. Mostly i remember the osprey atop the church peak. I found it a dusty, remote place, not much to write home about. The next day the crew went beachcombing ashore while i did stuff (don’t remember what) on the boat. We left at sunset for our next stop 80 miles south.

Reading the guidebook, Abreojos (Open eyes) sounded like a good stop some 90 miles south, especially if there were any “early” whales in the Bay of Saint Ignacio – but we were indeed a month early. The book calls San Ignacio is “ground zero” for whales – birthing, mating, and limited human access. On our approach, we lost our fishing lures as we passed too close to lobster pot buoys. Damn! We liked Abreojos quite a bit. It finally felt like we were really in Mexico. I kayaked in, my crew hitched a ride in soon after on a panga (thanks to pangureo Javier). We all commented that THIS felt much better than Ensenada or Turtle Bay. Probably due to their thriving fishery, along with the seasonal guided whale watches into the nearby bay, for the first time no one panhandled us, everyone waved, we finally thoroughly enjoyed fish tacos from a kitchen overlooking the beach… Now, how to get back to the boat? I packed the crew’s stuff into my kayak and they swam the third of a mile back.

We left late morning to make the 140 miles to Bahia Santa Maria outside of Magdalena Bay. So far, THIS was the best sailing day yet! Puffy tradewind type clouds (like cotton balls), steady winds to 20 knots on our beam, we averaged 6.5 knots, sailed thru the night and dropped anchor early the next morning. It was a sailing day to remember. As we rounded up for the tack into the bay and under the headlands, the dish locker popped open! I think something stacked inside must have touched the finger latch on the aft door. Anyway, we lost most of our dishes, which i expected over time rather than so suddenly and soon. I’d had them since before i married. 30 years. So now i look forward to the memories the Mexican dishes i get will create…and we eat out of bowls.

One of our new friends had described luck buying lobsters from the local fishermen here for a dollar each! So we had hopes. Again we pumped up the dinghy, now dubbed “sea cow” – Cody dissin’ my dinghy – and made our way thru the surf to shore. Here there were only a few small buildings – i’d call the place a camp instead of a village. We wandered down the beach to see two fishermen cleaning their catch - six sharks. It looked like they were getting a lot of good meat…but no langosta (lobster). A hike up the hill gave us a great view of this really remote spot.

This coast is beautiful! There are many layers to its beauty. Rugged, remote, arid, but there’s something more. And surprisingly green. Maybe i’m not used to so much unspoiled terrain – where there’s not much to spoil it for. I can’t find the right description (yet). Anyway. That’s all for now. My watch is about to start – noon to four. Then we’ll have dinner, get into the dark watches…so probably won’t be back with you here until tomorrow. Here’s wishing for a smooth night.

Back again. The wind held thru the night. We were a bit over canvassed with the full main and jib. Saw lots of 8s on the SOG (speed over ground), and occasional 9s. In the morning the pattern of the wind going light continued, and we found ourselves under drifter alone on the last tack into Cabo San Lucas.

This place is a ZOO! It couldn’t be a more insane contrast compared to Bahia Santa Maria. Absolutely wild! Personal watercraft zipping around, ultralight airplane buzzing overhead, hundreds of 20ish foot glass bottom boats full of tourists, sportfishing boats in and out, cruise ship arriving, a boat pulling an inflated “banana boat” full of tourists who can’t waterski in and out of it all, noisy, choppy. We pulled into the marina and inquired after a slip for the night. When they said sure, for $166 US (! wow, just hearing that was an experience), we understood why so many boats were anchored out in front of the beach and joined them. (Which was very neat in its own way – the water here is incredible! Very clear. We can see the anchor and chain on the bottom in 30’ of water. Swimming on the surface with mask on, looking down at the ripples in the sand, the illusion is that it must be only ten feet deep.)

The crew swam in (shirts in a ziploc, tossing it back and forth) while i caught up with e-mail here, thanks to someone’s wi-fi nearby. When they got back they described it as Las Vegas type unreality. Still, we may catch a water taxi in and take advantage of the Costco(?) here to restock some. Or maybe wait until we tie up in La Paz, 140 or so miles away. To depart today or tonight.

Okay, there you are. Caught up, tho stuff is missing here. Details. I.E. at one point we realized the mistake of storing the liquor bottles on their sides, after losing most of a bottle of cointreau and half a bottle of tequila. Darn! Each sunrise and sunset significant. Hoperfully photos can fill-in most of the details. This post seems more of a travelogue than anything else. About the external adventure. Being in transit is, frankly, tiring. I expect the cruising to be more relaxing, feel more optional. Maybe so far we’ve been “out there” more than “being there.”

One thing i want to thank you for again. My friend Sara just wrote it to me –“There are many of us out there that love you, i hope that you feel good knowing that. I am so grateful for my friends, my children and grandchildren, just knowing that i am cared about.” Yes, yes, yes. Wise woman! Thank you. Lucky me.

in Ensenada

Okay. No one would call a day of bureaucracy fun. But that's what today was. Even less fun when the anchor started to drag...ah yes, more humble pie. In any case, i want to post more...(saw our first whale go by at sunset last night - not that he/she "went by")...but am done ("stick a fork in me"). On to Turtle Bay, San Martin, and LaPaz. Maybe then?

Thinkin' of Jack's big birthday party...etc...carrying you all in our hearts.

from San Diego

Remember Elena, from our first crew? She sent us a note about a boat in this year's Baja Ha-ha (a migration of American cruisers headed to Mexico for the winter. Of course this has become a race for some, and a party for all. All 200 this year). This boat...was sunk by a whale (see http://sailing-jworld.blogspot.com/2009/10/hey-all-so-it-was-eventful-day.html). Bizarre. I tell myself that the odds are way lower than 1 out of 200...still, there are odds.

So...after reviewing "abandon ship" roles...we enjoyed a great Halloween day sail to Catalina Island. The winds started light and ahead of us, but filled in for a good reach. Note the crew (Ty sporting a "tattoo") doing their calisthenics - don't worry, not required if you come sail with us.

The highlight of the day was catching a 10-12 pound tuna. This fish was perfect - for a boat that has limited freezer space. We enjoyed three good meals from this catch - a couple of sushi, and one of grilled blackened tuna with coconut rice. What is Cody's title if it combines "medical officer" with "fish slayer?" Hmmm.

At Catalina we anchored in Catalina Harbor near the north end, and on the west side. This was a whole new view of the island as compared with the two times i've been there before via the ferry from the mainland to Avalon. Very arid...a preview of much of Baja? I took advantage of this welcome change from tying up in a marina by sleeping in the cockpit that night. The next day we took a hike to a good vantage point,

harvested a few pricky pears from the cactus and nearing sunset started for San Diego 80 miles away.

This had the good potential of a nearly full moon sail except that the wind didn't show up...at all! The seas looked more like a bath tub than an ocean, so we ended up motoring the whole way. All 15+ hours. Damn! The last half of which was in fog, adding "insult to injury." Oh well.

So here we are, enjoying the company of our good friend Jimmie Lunsford (Tyler played a few songs last night at the open mic Jimmie hosts here Monday nights) and prepping for Mexico. Everything from grocery shopping to calling the bank so they won't be surprised by seeing charges to our cards in MX...and adding Quinn (Cody's cousin from Texas) to our crew.

Once again we'll sort out whatever we forget.

In the meantime...i find myself sorting out a confusion of feelings. Here i am doing exactly what i want...and wondering why i am not happy? I try not to blame anything outside of myself (like deeply missing Christine to share this with), but to find understanding within myself. I'm coming to realize that while this certainly is my "dream," i have lived alot of life and am far different from who i was when i dreamed it. Of course! Over many years i have changed. Yes, i appreciate very much my luck to actually manifest this, to actually let this come out from inside of me, this IS my version of going on. But perhaps what i have to learn (if i can unattach from expectations and attend the actual experience) is what room this may create within me for the next part of my path. How next will i change? It helps me tremendously to talk about this with my parents, dear friends, son and crew...rather than bottling it up inside and wondering what's wrong with me...rather than reading too much into it and letting it take on too large dimensions. I could remain silent about it here, but that wouldn't be genuine for me. I truly am exploring new horizons...outside of myself and maybe even moreso within myself. THAT is my good fortune! Maybe not fun or comfy in some ways/levels/times, but lucky. I learned well with Christine that we are here to evolve, and we cannot do so silently or alone. Thank you each for being a part of this.

At least THAT is where i am with THIS at the moment. Tomorrow? On to Ensenada. My phone will quit working, i will access my gmail and blog when i get shoreside internet access, you can reach me via sailmail for time sensitive contact... I assure myself that we will stay in touch.