Sharing the adventures and horizons of the good sloop Akimbo and her crew going sailing... You might want to start at the "beginning" (October 3, 2009)? Thank you for visiting. It means a lot to me, so please leave comments or e-mail me @ jonthowe@gmail.com, and encourage others to visit too. It's a way for me to feel your company even from afar. Good luck to us all. Love and hope, jon

Wednesday, October 20, 2010

Fillin' in some blanks - from Belize


When i download photos, i realize i’m getting too tunnel visioned. I’m getting too goal oriented. Here i am in Belize. Colorful Belize. And i didn’t even mention Roatan?
About Bocas – i tied up at Marina Carenero’s docks. Small friendly operation, that doesn’t add a charge for this and a charge for that. I.E. internet access included, honor system on beers and sodas and laundry. Just a two minute water taxi across from Bocas town. Translated Carenero Cay means Carreening Key – and indeed they brag that Columbus, the admiral of the ocean seas himself, careened his ships there. A short walk away was the Cosmic Crab Café with resort attached – cool little restaurant built on pilings out over the water, with individual dining pilapas. Walking further, there are several nice homes there. They had a thriving herb garden. I harvested enuf basil to make four batches of pesto, three for me and one for them.
Next stop Providencia – neat island. A pirate stronghold in its day, fortified on shore to defend the narrow channel entrance. Felt more third world than most places i’ve been. The ship’s agent did me no favors by not fully checking me in and out. When i got to Roatan they levied a $50 fine on me for not having the right paperwork. Lesson learned.
On the way to Roatan i passed some fishing boats – outriggers out, anchored in 163’ of water? I was somewhat concerned late in the afternoon when i realized a beat up blue boat was following me. I flashed back on all the rumor i had heard about pirates. Sad that what worries me more than the weather on this trip is other people? Finally they got close enuf that one of their crew held up a fish for sale. I shook my head. Another sign languaged whether i had any cigarettes. Again i shook my head. They had gone a long way out in the middle of nowhere and lousy weather for nothin’. Their path finally diverged from mine.
Roatan – i got in early in the a.m. The ship’s agent there met me at the fuel dock, took my passport, credit card and paperwork and directed me to Fantasy Island Marina. He made it one stop shopping. $250 for the fuel, $200 for clearance in and out, $50 fine. Thankfully Fantasy Island sent out a boat to guide me in around the shoals, and cost only $20/night. Heaven for scuba divers is apparently spelled Roatan. This is Fantasy Island’s main biz, sending dive boats out to the surrounding reefs several times a day. The island is long and skinny and pretty. I met friends of friends one evening for dinner. Barbara and Duane have built a wellness center there. They bragged about the excellent and affordable health care, and the simple life with its resulting burst of creativity.

Rain continued to be the rule. With the hatches closed for all these wet days in the tropics, the inside of Akimbo was starting to mold! I departed Roatan and got tired of having to beat our way to the south end of Belize’s archipelago. About 1 am i gave it up. The north end of the Belize islands was about the same distance away and we could straight line sail there on port tack. It made for a much more pleasant night. I arrived at the southern end of Turneffe Island shortly before dusk the next day– my last overnight alone and too late to navigate thru the barrier reef to Belize City. So i dropped anchor and enjoyed a quiet night at anchor. The water clarity is incredible – looks like gin. The next day was finally a gorgeous, sunny, picture perfect day of sailing. Lightly rippled water, ten knots of wind, tacking in a favorable current. I had forgotten what a pleasure this could be. Had already put the boat up for sale in my mind.

I made Belize City and tied up to the Radisson’s dock at dusk. Their marina is not a going concern – no electricity, lots of bird shit – and cheap. Belize far and away takes the prize for the most bureaucracy. Absolutely ridiculous. Five people come aboard, each from a different department. Paperwork and more paperwork, and $200 later you’re in. You’d think they’re trying to discourage visitors – unless they come in big numbers on cruise ships, which they do. Another yachter here ran afoul of procedure (two crew had left their passports behind – i don’t know how they traveled without them) - $2000 later (not to mention the lawyer’s charges) he tells me the Belize jail was a good clean jail. Pretty exciting place with all the street vendors, kids and bustling…but again the warning from the dock master, don’t go walking at night. Hmm.
Me? I'm awfully goal oriented now, cuttin' to the chase, headin' for the barn...fill in as you please. Haven’t put up my prayer flags for a few weeks – but then it’s been raining. My energy doesn’t feel expansive. It’s that tired thing. Tired of being alone. Of the risks i've been running. Of myself. I wonder without this adventure what/who i can become. I feel primed to change.
Tomorrow? Sean arrives. Loaded with my too many requests. And willing to crew. This will seem new to me, after about 7 months on my own. I'm lookin' forward to it.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Hola 'Dr. Jon'! You are having yourself quite a time bud. Nancy and I have often wondered how you're doing with so many storms popping up in that general area. Love your stories. Wow! Glad Sean is joining you....help at last. Looking forward to seeing you in Clearwater again. Be safe bud. Hugs/Love, Greg